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View Full Version : New waterblock almost done.....


Hundekot
07-06-2002, 07:00 AM
I've been working on this thing on and off for about 3 weeks now.
It started out as a 6"x3"x4' bar of billet aluminum. First I hacked off a 3/4" chunk for the block, then a 1/4" piece for the cold plate.
After I milled these down to size (3"x3.25") I drilled/tapped/countersunk the cold plate. Then came the scary part for me, milling the block. My original plan was to have 3 3/16" channels but I broke all my small bits and had to go with just the 1/2" channel.
http://www.ptialaska.net/~carrion/wb/1.jpg

Actually didn't come out too shabby, much better than the last block I made which you can see at the bottom

that's the top of the block (haven't figured how I'm going to seal it quite yet) in this picture, it's screwed to the cold plate with no pelt.
http://www.ptialaska.net/~carrion/wb/2.jpg

This is a shot with the 226W pelt installed.
http://www.ptialaska.net/~carrion/wb/3.jpg

And this is a shot of the finished cold plate. The smokes are just there for size reference.
http://www.ptialaska.net/~carrion/wb/4.jpg

I think I kind of screwed myself, so I'm open to any suggestions as how to seal it. I'm nowhere near good enough to mill a groove for an O-ring. I can weld a plate over the block without too much problem, but I never even thought about how to seal the mounting holes......dumbass.


Hund

The other block (http://www.ptialaska.net/~carrion/block/block.htm)

Shep
07-06-2002, 08:49 AM
can you not just use copious quantities of silicone sealent?

dicki
07-06-2002, 03:07 PM
no no no no no!

i've done that... very very bad things happen

i am a big fan of glue though. get your self some decent marine epoxy (make sure it's water proof and temperature resistant) or get some instant gasket from the garage and stick it together with that. top stuff.

looks very nice btw... if you have access to a decant machine shop (and it looks like you have) you might like to try pressing a slim plate of copper into the base of the next block to act as a heat spreader, you'll need some serious force to do it but it should work really well.

also for the next one (if you do another one) you might like to try to arrange to bring the water in directly over the cpu... that works very nicely

dicki

Player0
07-06-2002, 06:08 PM
Use RTV silicone, the kind used to make header gaskets for autos. Ive used this on other waterblocks and it prevents leaks, it should work okay for ya :) Or you can just weld the top on.