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View Full Version : radiator cooling to push or to pull


IAMSUPERMAN
02-12-2003, 12:20 PM
Hello once agin my friends.
stoped by again to ask which is best for cooling?
ill be using a Black Ice Xtreme
which method is best for cooling this unit
ive see the push pull combo and just pushing or just pulling air thru the unit?
and how big of a fans should i get?
ill be oc p4 3.06 and dose the water pump size matter?

Farabomb
02-12-2003, 01:41 PM
I'm using 2x 120's on my BIX with a maze3 and a eheim 1250. I guess I'm pulling through the rad with bolth fans.

But that's just me :D

bigg
02-12-2003, 05:22 PM
for no tecs, and noise consiousness, two panaflows should be fine. higher cfm fans can drop temps a degree or two or three

soccrstar
02-12-2003, 06:57 PM
or four or five or six or seven or eight or nine or ten :p

IAMSUPERMAN
02-12-2003, 07:03 PM
ya im planning on using danger den maz3 with tec
i gess ill go with the 120push and a 120 to pull.
any one ever try the O.T.I.S. stystem?

Kill-Switch
02-12-2003, 08:21 PM
May as well throw my question in here as it's related to the topic.

I have 1 fan on my BIX (for whenever my watercooling system gets running). The BIX and fan are mounted on the inside-front of my case with the BIX first (attached to the case) followed by the fan.

What I want to know is should I have the fan suck air through the BIX into the case ... OR should I have it blow air through the BIX and out of the case?

Drake
02-12-2003, 08:26 PM
You should have the coolest air possible hitting the radiator, so sucking in air from outside is usually the best, unless you have an oddball case where your case temps are cooler than your room :rolleyes:

bigg
02-12-2003, 08:29 PM
It dosen't realy matter as the temps should be the same throughout, as long as you have good case airflow. yes, with a tec, a faster fan will be needed, but with straight water, a panaflow won't do THAT much better than a delta ystech or sunon monster

IAMSUPERMAN
02-12-2003, 08:58 PM
this is for kill switch
i was thinking of doing this cus ive see several systems like that.
first if you go with the blow into the box method make sure you can off set the new air volume going in with the air volume with equal to or better pushing out of the box.
if you wish to out of the box method make sure you have equal to or better fresh air volume pushing into the box
basically the most imprtant thing being not to let the hot air inside build up (allways have the air moving out as quickly as possible)

IAMSUPERMAN
02-12-2003, 09:46 PM
Ok here we go
This is the system so far
For loop one
Ill be using ½ tubing being pumped by
1250 Eheim 310 gph into a Danger den cpu maze 3 for an Intel P4 3.06 block cooler with tec into a Reservoirs going into a Black Ice Xtreme using one 120 fan to push air thru it.
For loop two
Ill be using the 3/8 tubing
Pumped by a another 1250 Eheim 310 gph for a Gemini nfoce4 gpu gpuram cooler going into it a Reservoir then into a danger den system chip cooler back to another Reservoir then into RAM AQUA SINK out going into another Reservoir then to a Black Ice Xtreme using one 120 fan to push air thru it.
I know this is a big loop but but im building a clear full tower case and wnat to show off all that water with lots of light to boot, also I am hopping the larger pump and the additional second large radiator offset the size of the loop and dispense the heat evenly
Ill also have 3x120 fans blowing fresh air into the box.
I also like the idea of keeping the thing symmetrical.
But the idea just hit me? how much noise is this thing going to make?
Any comments? Please advice

Kill-Switch
02-13-2003, 12:06 PM
Originally posted by IAMSUPERMAN
this is for kill switch
i was thinking of doing this cus ive see several systems like that.
first if you go with the blow into the box method make sure you can off set the new air volume going in with the air volume with equal to or better pushing out of the box.
if you wish to out of the box method make sure you have equal to or better fresh air volume pushing into the box
basically the most imprtant thing being not to let the hot air inside build up (allways have the air moving out as quickly as possible)

Thanks for the info ... I have a few ideas, although I went for watercooling to get rid of the fans, not to keep them there.

IAMSUPERMAN
02-13-2003, 03:37 PM
I know what you mean it all depends on how hot you want to run i guess.
but if it was just to get rid of the fans?
narmal use without much o/c u should not have to worry that much i guess the best thing would be to first get a temp senser to find out just how hot ur chip gets and see if it needs any help at all. then you can go from there. heck u mit just be able to get rid of a fan to boot

bigg
02-13-2003, 05:40 PM
IAMSUPERMAN:
this is for all of your different posts in different threads:

as for the fan:
the 190 cfm looks nice on paper, but they can have issues starting up @ under 7V, so in order to 5v, it would have to be manually adjusted for 7v to 5v once it got spinning. it wil still be loud. something close to 100cfm should be fine, as long as there are two (push/pull), and can be more eaisily undervolted.

As for the two loops:
the main loop looks just fine. should work well, because of the low resistance, and simplicity. The only thing is that the eheim is more expensive, and larger then a Swiftech or hydor pump that can pump just as much.

the secondary loop has a few problems. you DON'T need a an eheim 1250 pump. a hydor l20 or eheim submersible are both about $35, and should be fine, as there is no huge heat output from the things that it will be wcing. also the rad is overkill. a swiftech blue rad (which sux when used to cool a cpu) should be just fine for the extra accesories. as for the tube size, the ramsinks and gemmini blox use 5/16" and 1/4" ID tubing, respectivley. 1/4" tubing can be stretched to fit over 5/16" tubing. I'd recommend running the hydor l20 with 1/2" to 1/4" adapters, and putting 1/4" barbs on the NB blok and RESes. Innovatek HD coolers (also 3/8" OD/1/4-5/16" ID) would be another cool "accesory" to add, to round the full suite of wcing oddities. The Rad ca have 3/8" quick connect fittings put onto it.

three RESes:
holy ****
but in look's name, then i guess. the main wc loop just needs a t for fill/bleed. that would provide the least resistance the secondary loop could go res>res>pump>gemmini>NB>ram>rad>res>HD>res>res>pump etc...
this is assuming you have a mormal case with the pump near the bottom, and the HD and a res or two near the top