PDA

View Full Version : Unlock 2200+ on 7vaxp


Tom T
12-13-2002, 12:40 PM
Hello all. I'm back with a new chip and new m/b.(7vaxp) I know have the defogger repair kit to unlock the chip with. Looks like all I'll use in this kit is the elec. conductive adhesive to make the connection with, correct? Once that is done properly, can I just set my fsb 200mhz and dip to 9.5 or 10? I'd like to try to run a syncronous bus.( 200 fsb and pc 3200 memory) What other settings will I need to change before attempting this? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Tom. I'm trying to increase my memory bandwidth. What #'s can I expect with this set-up. Thanks again.

Farabomb
12-13-2002, 01:31 PM
Welcome back :)

I've never used that baord so I can't get too specific on settings. First read our unlocking guide to refresh your memory. Mask the pits off and fill them with something non-coductive (crayon, clear nailpolish, ect.) then use the brown conductive paint to connect the bridges (dots). I use a pin that I dip in the paint and let dry and then dip again and connect. LET IT DRY. That's the part I left out when I did my 1600+ and I had to re-do it many, many times :(

Now the board settings. I don't even know what chipset it has but here's some baseline settings. If it has a 5:2:1 (I think) divider enable it. This will keep the AGP/PCI bus somewhat in spec. Max out the memory settings but keep 2T for now. 1T tends to crash everything :).

Make sure you have good cooling. A $5 HSF won't cut it. Pay attention to your temps and you should be good.

Can't think of much more while sitting here @ work but this should get you started.

Good luck :thumbsup:

WesM63
12-13-2002, 03:15 PM
Fara has yah steered in the right direction. If i remember right that's a gigabyte board with a kt400 chipset. The Kt400 chipset should unlock it automatically, but don't quote me on that as i'am not for shure. Good luck them 2200's are nice:D

Tom T
12-13-2002, 03:35 PM
Thanks for the quick reply! The board has the kt400 chipset but I do not believe it has a devider. It has manuel dip swithces which lead me to believe that if I want the pci and agp slots to run at spec, I will have to enable the agp and pci auto detect in the bios. I heard the same thing Wes, but my board will not post unless I set the multiplier to auto detect. Those 2200's are especially nice when there free huh Wes? Thanks for the input guys.:D BTW, How do you get the cool pictures to post uder your screen names?

Synthohol
12-13-2002, 04:12 PM
BTW, How do you get the cool pictures to post uder your screen names? [/B]

easy, find a pic in the formats allowed and go to user cp, edit options, avatar, brouse and select! remember, 100x100 max i think

mdzcpa
12-13-2002, 08:01 PM
Tom T:

You need to perform the CPU unlock procedure for this mobo. It is one of the few KT400 mobos that need this.

Close the 5th L3 bridge only to unlock the chip.

Next make sure you have the SW1 jumper set to 166mhz. This would be set in the OFF/ON position.

Next make sure the CK_RATIO switches are set to Auto or your desired lower multiplier.

Then under Frequency/ Voltage Control under the BIOS set:
CPU Host Clock Control : Enabled
CPU Host Frequency: 166

You should see the PCI/AGP Frequncy change to 33/66 at Host Frequency settings 100, 133, and 166. As you move up, the PCI/AGP divisors automatically kick in (1/3 at 100, 1/4 at 133, and 1/5 at 166). I would suggest you start with 166 and move up from there.

You will need to also up the CPU and DDR voltages as the CPU overclock and FSB overclock increases.

Your only other performance setting will be to either leave Top Performance enabled or disabled. Enabled will produce performance gains at the expense of some stability. you'll have to experiement to find out what works for you at higher FSB speeds.

Tom T
12-14-2002, 12:13 AM
Thanks mdzcpa! That info. hit the spot. I'll be working on the project over the weekend and I just want to thank everyone for holding my hand on this. I'm looking forward to learning and sharing on this forum. From what I have read and seen in the posts, this has got to be the best forum I've come across. Again, many thanks and when I get things running I'll post specs. Tom.:D

mdzcpa
12-14-2002, 12:59 AM
Glad we could help. I look forward to seeing you around the forums:)

Tom T
12-16-2002, 01:36 PM
Hi guys. I put the conductive adhesive from the defogger kit on the chip to unlock it. I put an amt. that seems to mirror that of the unlocked chip in mdzap's how to section. The chip runs like it hasn't been unlocked. It will post at 133 x auto detect but thats it. I know I've got a nice amt. of conductive materiel on the 5th l3 bridge and it was dry over night. Now I wonder if I can get the adhesive off so I can reapply. Any ideas? :confused:

mdzcpa
12-16-2002, 03:41 PM
Try just scraping it off with you finger nail. Be gentle so you do not scratch the subtrate surface.

This is one of the reasons I use conductive grease and not defogger repair. Conductive grease removes with a simple swipe of a q tip, unlike defogger repair which dries hard and is sometimes difficult to remove.

Anyway...you might want to think about using the grease the next time around.

Has anyone found anything which will dissolve or loosen the defogger repair material? rubbing alcohol, finger nail polish remover, etc?

Farabomb
12-16-2002, 04:00 PM
I've used film cleaner and my fingernail. I've also had to resort to an x-acto knife and a pin but that's why I have a 1600+ with no top layer between the L1 dots :) If you're careful you can do it but I wouldn't recomend it.

Tom T
12-16-2002, 06:42 PM
Thanks for the quick reply mdzcp. After I got off earlier, I scraped it off with my fingernail and cleaned it off with nail polish remover. I found that even though this stuff was on by 1am sat. mourn. it was still soft. I put the chip in aroung 3pm later that day.(cure time,14 hours) I checked the directions and it said to let cure for 24 hours. Farabomb stated in an earlier post to wait until it was dry. Its sitting up now and will try install Wed. mourning. Will post results. Thanks again.:)

Farabomb
12-16-2002, 08:14 PM
I only had a 6-12 hour cure time on my 2000+ and it worked first try. I did do 3-4 coats on the bridges giving a hour or two between coats.

I'm thinking my next purchase will be a Abit KT400A (if they show up ever) and a t-bred (barton if they show up ever) ;) .

Tom T
12-16-2002, 09:13 PM
Do you think it is possible that I might have to do all three bridges? I had a good coat of materiel the first time as I do now, but I put just one coat on it. However, through a magnifying glass I could see the dots through the materiel. I thought that was curious, but I mixed the materiel thouroghly. I would try some conductive grease but I can't find any just yet. Oh well. I havn't given up just yet.:)

mdzcpa
12-16-2002, 10:37 PM
Originally posted by Tom T

I havn't given up just yet.:)

Keep up the good fight...when you unlock that sucker it's a great feeling:)

Tom T
12-19-2002, 10:42 AM
Well guys, same result. Will run as 2200 but will not unlock. I have ordered some conductive grease and will try that. Its hard to believe this chip isn't unlocked yet. I have a bunch of materiel on and it should be enough. I set the dip switch to 166 and tried auto detect multi. and lower multi. with no success. Will not post untill I go back to 133 and auto detect. I cleaned the connections before useing the conductive adhesive. I even used a pin to scrape the dots lightly. Its a war, but this BI___ is going down!:2guns: :2guns:

mdzcpa
12-19-2002, 12:33 PM
Originally posted by Tom T
Its a war, but this BI___ is going down!:2guns: :2guns:

Now that's the spirit!